Montego Bay

By Chanize Thorpe

For many, Montego Bay is their first glimpse of Jamaica. Jamaica’s second-largest city is located on the northwest coast, and MoBay, as it’s affectionately known, boasts beaches, golf courses and plenty of resorts. This explains why more than 1 million visitors make it their annual vacation choice. They come for the sunny skies, rollicking music and easygoing atmosphere that spreads from the palm tree-dotted hills to the bustling downtown streets.

In 1494, Christopher Columbus landed in Jamaica at Montego Bay and called it “El Golfo de Buen Tiempo” (The Gulf of Good Weather). But later on, the Spanish renamed it an unflattering “Bahia de Manteca” (Lard Bay) because the area had become the main shipping port for wild hogs and their lard. The 18th century marked the arrival of the British — and sugar and bananas took over as the primary exports and the region was renamed Montego Bay. This was an era of wealth; plantations and their great houses cropped up around the area, making it rich in history and tradition.

MoBay was the first of Jamaica’s developed resort areas, so you’ll find the biggest range of hotels here — from elegant five-star resorts and fun-in-the-sun all-inclusives to modest inns and private villas. There’s no shortage of accommodations here whether you seek a charming hillside bed and breakfast perfect for a privacy-hungry honeymoon couple or a grand family-friendly beachfront property.

Sightseeing
Many of the activities you’ll find to do in Montego Bay can be arranged through your hotel’s concierge or activity desk. The list of must-do’s is as spread out as the city itself and appeal to a range of interests from history to nature buffs. Excursions can last just a few short hours or can keep you occupied for the whole day if you choose.

Jamaica, and in particular, Montego Bay is well known for its 17th- and 18th-century sugar and banana plantations. This industry brought wealth to the area and gave rise to sprawling estates with immaculate Great Houses at their centers. Some of the most popular ones to visit in the area include the Bellefield Great House, an 18th-century mansion in the middle of a 3,000-acre former sugar plantation in Granville. A 90-minute tour reveals an ancient sugar mill and boiler house where rum was once produced, plus an an exploration of the house and a lavish lunch buffet.
 
There’s also the Greenwood Great House, 15 miles east of Montego Bay. This 19th-century Georgian-style home was built by a cousin of poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning. The original library of the Barrett family is on display along with one of the island’s largest and most impressive collections of rare booak, musical instruments and antique furniture.

A visit to Montego Bay wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the famous Rose Hall Great House, an 18th-century mansion sitting on 6,600 acres of well-manicured land. While the great house sits on an estate that now contains three golf courses, it is also infamous as an area haunted by the ghost of Annie Palmer. This voodoo-practicing mistress of the house earned the nickname “The White Witch of Rose Hall,” as she was said to have murdered three husbands before being killed by her slave lover.

Other activities around MoBay include a day on the Animal Farm, home of the “Rasta Fowl” chickens. Jamaica’s newest six-acre animal sanctuary is 20 minutes outside of Montego Bay and visitors can explore the natural habitat of exotic birds and learn the benefits of solar electricity thanks to the farm's green initiatives. After enjoying a picnic lunch, there’s a playground and petting zoo available for children, as well as rides on a donkey named Boxer.

If you want to have a maxin’ and relaxin’ day on the water, there’s an opportunity to take a gentle ride down the smooth Martha Brae River, whose name comes from an Arawak Indian witch who tricked Spanish gold seekers into drowning themselves in its waters. The adventure starts at Rafter’s Village recreational area with rum punches and swimming, after which you can climb aboard a traditional 30-foot long bamboo raft and slowly glide three miles down the river, passing fragrant cottonwood, allspice and almond trees.

Strolling about and taking in MoBay’s architecture is a must-do, especially at places like St. James Parish Church, said to be built between 1775 and 1872. Regarded as the finest church on the island because of its Greek cross shape and luminous stained-glass window, it’s also home to two monuments by sculptor John Bacon. In 1957, an earthquake caused major damage to the church and it had to be rebuilt, but it still retains its glory today.

The Cage is a small brick and cut-stone building in Sam Sharpe Square and was once a temporary jail. Runaway slaves, drunken sailors and other vagrants spent the night before going to trial. Today it operates as a tiny museum and, conveniently enough, a foreign currency exchange kiosk.

There’s no shortage of color in Jamaica, but for a full rainbow-worthy dose, visit the Gallery of West Indian Art.  More than 40 years old, the bright red, green and yellow facade of the Gallery is a prelude to the colorful contents inside. You’ll find a vibrant collection of Caribbean paintings from Haiti, Cuba and local artists, as well as painted animal carvings, handmade pottery and other objets d’ art. It’s as much an artistic showcase as a retail establishment. 

For a complete list of activities in Jamaica, visit the Activities Directory.

Shopping
Jamaica is tops for several specialty souvenirs — namely handicrafts, Blue Mountain coffee and excellent rum and reggae music. There are plenty of shops and markets on Gloucester Avenue, so look for these items there, as well as handmade soaps, signature spices and the jerk sauces pickapeppa, banana ketchup and Walkerswood.

Also, thanks to Montego Bay’s position as a leading port of call, there are many duty-free stores where you can purchase luxury items like fine jewelry, perfume, cigars and more. Shopping hours vary, but business is generally conducted from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Saturdays. Some of the stores in the main resort areas will stay open later, but know that many shops are closed on Sundays unless a cruise ship is in port.

Crafts Market on Harbour Street is the place to find straw baskets and hats, handmade leather goods, wall hangings, hand-dyed batik fabrics, and wood and bone carvings. Don’t be afraid to haggle over prices; however, keep in mind that once you start bargaining you’re pretty much expected to buy.

Half Moon Shopping Village right outside the Half Moon Bay Resort is a plaza of more than 30 boutiques and duty-free emporiums. Just down the road is also The Shoppes at Rose Hall, a luxury retail center across from Rose Hall Great House. There are 30 specialty stores featuring name-brand jewelry, as well as resortwear and souvenirs. When you’re done shopping, you can relax with a bite to eat and a cocktail at one of the sumptuous on-site cafés.

The new Whitter Village Centre, in the Ironshore section of Montego Bay, is a retail haven comprising 200,000 square feet and 30 stores selling shoes, books, electronics and more. An al fresco dining area sits among the garden and water feature areas, as well as a bandstand section for special events and musical entertainment.

Want to know about shopping in Jamaica? Visit the Shopping Directory.

Dining
Even though many tourists find themselves dining within their resorts, Jamaica is home to some of the Caribbean’s finest fare. You’ll find small, homegrown eateries located in between bigger restaurants in the area. There are elegant resort restaurants offering white-gloved service as well as lick-your-fingers fast food places serving up casual fare. You’ll find a smattering of international restaurants offering good quality Italian and French cuisine, though many have added a Jamaican flare to their dishes simply by utilizing the island’s plentiful ingredients. If you’re looking for something different, ask your concierge for a recommendation. Often, some of the more formal restaurants provide a free hotel pick-up or round-trip shuttle service within their immediate area.

And while there’s no shortage of “American” favorites at any restaurant you find, remember that this is Jamaica and the country’s cuisine is second to none in flavor and complexity. There are a host of dishes to try and chances are, you’ll find samples of local cooking on many of the menus you come across.

First there’s the super casual beach restaurants where it’s all about lingering with a Red Stripe beer or fruit punch while you wait for the food to be cooked. The menu is usually very simple — grilled or stewed chicken or fish, a heaping mound of rice and peas and vegetables, called “ground provisions.” There are also jerk stands or restaurants where the meats are usually spiced for the local palate, not the tourist taste buds. This is what makes The Pork Pit, in downtown MoBay, a local institution. Scotchie’s is also considered one of the island’s best jerk spots and a varied menu of chicken, fish, sausage and more. Both places operate on the same rhythm: you pay for your meal in advance, you’re given a ticket, then you then take it to the barbecue area where the grill man prepares and gives you your food. You can take it to go, but there are usually a few chairs and tables around, and half the experience is sitting around with crowd, trying to pretend like your mouth isn’t burning while your taste buds erupt in delight.

Other Jamaican foods one should try include the national dish of ackee and saltfish. Traditionally served at breakfast, ackee is an actual fruit that when cooked is similar to scrambled eggs. Saltfish is dried codfish. When cooked together, it makes an incredible and hearty meal, especially when served alongside bammy, which is fried bread made with cassava flour. Then there’s callaloo, a spinach-like vegetable that turns up in soups and stews, festival, a type of hush puppy that’s often served with jerk meat, and don’t forget flaky Jamaican beef patties, filled with spicy ground beef. These make for great afternoon or evening snacks, especially when you wash them down with a cold Red Stripe beer or a Ting grapefruit soda.

Nightlife
Most evening activity in MoBay centers around resort and hotel happenings. However, you can always find a party on the famous “Hip Strip” or Gloucester Avenue, in the middle of the city. Here you’ll find music, dancing and dining in one big street party setting. It’s not unusual to hop from one venue to another. The Hip Strip is also the setting for a string of bars and nightclubs with interesting names like Rush Hour, Moves and Rehab. Music of all types can be heard, from the island-loved reggae, dancehall and calypso to a more mellow jazz. 

Many start with the famous Margaritaville, named after the famous Jimmy Buffett song. It’s a favorite with both locals and tourists for its lengthy drinks menu, outdoor seating and its massive waterslide that goes from the restaurant’s top deck straight into the waves below. 

Jamaican Bobsled Café, also on the “Hip Strip” is dedicated to the real-life Jamaican bobsled team whose story was (loosely) told in the 1993 film Cool Runnings. It has the area’s longest happy hour, from 7 p.m. until midnight. Here your partying is for a good cause: a percentage of the café’s profits go to the Bobsled Federation of Jamaica.

Discounted drinks, open-stage nights and other weekly events are just the beginning of the fun at Pier One Entertainment complex. There’s an open-air restaurant and bar where you can enjoy exotic drinks and freshly caught fish while watching the boats bob in the marina. The party goes on late into the night as the crowd dances the night away, especially if a performer like Fantasia or Beenie Man shows up and takes over the stage.


Dining Options in Montego Bay

Sugar Mill Restaurant
International
At Half Moon Resort, Rose Hall; 953-2314

Horizons
International
At Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall Resort; 953-2800

Round Hill
International
At Round Hill Resort, Route A1; 956-7050

Great House
International
In Tryall Club, Hanover; 956-5660-3

Rosella Bistro
Jamaican
In Hotel Wexford, 39 Gloucester Avenue; 952-2854-5

The Oleander Room
Jamaican / International
In Sandals Montego Bay; 952-5510-5

The Vineyard
Caribbean
In Coyaba Beach Resort & Spa, 22 Mahoe Bay, Little River; 953-9150-3

Scotchie’s
Jamaican
Falmouth Road; 953-8041

The Seaview Restaurant & Bar
Jamaican
In El Greco Resort, 11 Queens Drive; 940-6116

Three Palms
International
Across from Rose Hall Resort; 953-2650

For a guide to dining in Jamaica visit the Dining Directory.

Casa de Oro Jewelers
Suite 7C, Shoppes at Rose Hall, Rose Hall
876-953-3371; info@casadeoro.com; casadeoro.com
Casa de Oro has been and continues to be the pinnacle of duty-free shopping in Jamaica since its inception in 1958, selling the top names in luxury watches, jewelry, and accessories. CDO has one of the largest selections of brands available in Jamaica, and is the exclusive agent for top name companies, including Cartier, Tag Heuer, Vacheron Constantin, Dior and many many more. A trip to Jamaica is not complete without a visit to one of the four Casa de Oro stores, located in Ocho Rios, Negril and Rose Hall Montego Bay.

Iberostar Rose Hall Resort & Spa
Rose Hall Main Road, Montego Bay-Little River PO
St. James, Jamaica; Tel: 876-680-0000,
Fax: 876-953-8019
iberostar.com

Jewels In Paradise
Montego Bay: Shop #26, Shoppes at Rose Hall 
876 953 9372
Ocho Rios: Shop #21, Tajmahal Shopping Centre, Main St.
876 974 6929; USA: 305 735 3076
info@jewelsinparadise.com; jewelsinparadise.com
Duty- and tax-free retailers in Jamaica for over 50 years. Representing fine watches and exquisite jewelry at substantial savings. In Watches we carry: Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, IWC, Corum, Bell & Ross, Oris, Citizen and Swatch.

In Jewelry, besides offering great deals on diamonds and beautiful jewelry, we represent the  internationally recognized luxury brands of Roberto Coin and Carrera y Carrera

MBJ Airports Limited
MBJ Airports Limited manages and operates the Sangster International Airport (SIA) in Montego Bay, Jamaica. As the primary tourism gateway to Jamaica, the airport is served by over 40 scheduled and charter airlines from the United States, Canada and Europe. A US$180 million expansion and renovation was recently completed, upgrading the airport to international standards to serve the almost 3.6 million passengers that use the facility every year. SIA also boasts some of the best shopping in Jamaica and all in air-conditioned comfort! Our restaurants, souvenir shops and duty-free vendors showcase the best that Jamaica has to offer!

Round Hill Hotel & Villas
John Pringle Drive, Montego Bay
876 956 7050
info@roundhill.com
roundhill.com
Open and inviting, richly appointed and steeped in tradition, Round Hill takes you far beyond the ordinary vacation getaway with our luxurious accommodations, our world class-spa and sumptuous meal prepared by our award-winning chef.

The Tryall Club
P.O. Box 1206, Sandy Bay, Hanover
800-238-5290
administration@tryallclub.com
tryallclub.com
Managing Director: Gerald Giarla. One of the Caribbean’s legacy clubs, featuring 85 sumptuous private villas (1 to 8 bedrooms available), each one completely distinct in design and layout. Estate villas offer personal chef, housekeeper, laundress and gardener. Guests enjoy the lavish surroundings of a private luxury villa but remain footsteps from a vibrant club atmosphere. On-site wildlife and nature program, world championship golf and tennis, meeting space, four bars and two restaurants.

Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville
23-25 Coconut Way, Freeport, Montego Bay
876-979-8041; infor@margaritavillecaribbean.com
margaritavillecaribbean.com
“Waste away” at Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville in MoBay, Negril and Ochi, where the fun never stops!  Enjoy a world-famous “Cheeseburger in Paradise,” tropical margaritas and shop at our trading posts for exclusive Margaritaville merchandise.

Tropicana Jewelers
#3 Tajmahal Shopping Centre: 876-974-2928
Island Village: 876-675-8774.
Our outstanding offerings include renowned watch brands such as Patek Philippe, Breguet, Chopard, Harry Winston and Panerai. Classy yet distinctive designer jewelry from David Yurman, Marco Bicego, Dmodolo, Bulgari and many others. Credit cards
are welcome.


JHTA Hotel / Resort Members in Montego Bay

Altamont West Hotel
33 Gloucester Ave.
Montego Bay, St. James
876-952-9087 / 876-929-4497

Breezes Resort & Spa Trelawny
Falmouth, Trelawny
876-954-2450

Coyaba Beach Resort & Spa
22 Mahoe Bay, St. James
876-953-9150

Doctor’s Cave Beach Hotel
Gloucester Avenue
Montego Bay, St. James
876-952-4355

El Greco Resort
11 Queens Drive
Montego Bay, St. James
876-940-6116 / 940-6120

Grand Palladium Resort
Point District Lucea, Hanover
876-619-0000

Half Moon, a Rock Resort
Montego Bay, St. James
876-953-2211

Hilton Rose Hall Resort & Spa
Montego Bay
876-953-2650

Holiday Inn Sunspree Resort
Montego Bay, St. James
876-953-2485-9

Hotel Gloriana
1-2 Sunset Blvd.
Montego Bay, St. James
876-979-0669

Iberostar Rose Hall Beach & Spa Resort
Rose Hall Main Road
Montego Bay, St. James
876-680-0000

Luxury Tennis Golf Villas
Rose Hall
Montego Bay, St. James
876-953-2732

N Resort
Falmouth, Trelawny
876-973-4124

Palm View Resort & Conference Centre
22 Delisser Drive
Montego Bay
876-952-1738/8321/1800

The Palmyra Resort & Spa
The Palms, Rose Hall
Montego Bay, St. James
876-953-9787

Richmond Hill Inn
Union Street
Montego Bay, St. James
876-952-3859

The Ritz-Carlton Golf & Spa Resort
Montego Bay, St. James
876-953-2204 / 953-2800

Riu Montego Bay
Mahoe Bay, Rose Hall, Montego Bay
876-940-8010

Round Hill Hotel
John Pringle Drive
Montego Bay 1, St. James
876-956-7050

Sandals Carlyle
Kent Avenue
Montego Bay, St. James
876-952-4140

Sandals Montego Bay
Kent Avenue
Montego Bay, St. James
876-952-5510

Sandals Royal Caribbean Resort & Private Island
Mahoe Bay, Rose Hall
Montego Bay, St. James
876-953-2788

Secrets St. James Montego Bay
Montego Freeport, St James
876-953-6600

Secrets Wild Orchid Montego Bay
Montego Freeport, St. James
876-953-6600

Silent Waters Villas
White Sands Beach P.O.
Montego Bay
876-971-9119-21

Sunset Beach Resort & Spa
Montego Freeport, Montego Bay
876-979-8800

Toby’s Resort
1 Kent Ave.
Montego Bay, St. James
876-0952-4370

Tryall Club
Sandy Bay Main Road
Hanover
876-956-5660-3

For a guide to lodging in Jamaica visit the Lodging Directory.