Kingston

By Cheryl Blackerby

Kingston is a city like no other. The city’s calendar is packed with some of the biggest events in the Caribbean, like wine and seafood festivals, fashion shows and much more.

Visitors can find plenty of duty-free shopping and impressive art galleries, as well as countless sightseeing opportunities throughout the city and its surroundings. You can lie on a beach in beautiful Lime Cay or by a pool at a boutique inn. Then enjoy a lunch of spicy jerk chicken and a couple of bottles of Ting, Jamaica’s grapefruit soda. And once you’ve had your fill of sun and relaxation, you can take to the country’s most exciting nightclubs when the sun goes down.

Take time to explore the 300 years of history at forts, museums, churches and historic buildings. Everything is “irie,” as they say in Jamaica — a perfect day.

Sightseeing
Even though Kingston is one of the busiest capitals in the Caribbean, there is more to be done here than just business. Plenty of sightseeing opportunities await, starting in the center of town.

Make sure to visit the Parade, which is the city’s main square. Its name derives from its former use as parade grounds of the Colonial Militia and for public hangings and floggings. Here you’ll see the recently restored Ward Theatre, the country’s largest and best-known arts theater; the historic Coke Methodist Church on the east side of the square; and crowded Coronation Market, the largest market on the island, where vendors offer everything from spicy Jamaican meat patties to bunches of refreshing guineps (grape-sized fruit), handmade baskets, music CDs and beachwear. On the south side of the Parade is the Kingston Parish Church, where graves date to 1699.

Not too far away is the Devon House, offering visitors a glimpse of the city’s genteel past. Dating back to 1881, this mansion was built at the corner of Trafalgar Road and Hope Road by Jamaica’s first black millionaire, George Stiebel. You’ll see fine ancient furnishings inside the home and also tour the 11-acre grounds and gardens. Afterward, enjoy a lunch or dinner in one of two restaurants there, or browse at a dozen shops located in the estate’s former stables and carriage house.

You’ll also have your fill of natural splendor at Hope Botanical Gardens and Zoo. Established by the government on the Hope Estate in 1873, this is the largest garden in the West Indies, covering 200 green acres. Take a picnic lunch and sit on a bench in the shade to best enjoy the peaceful paths and sweeping lawns. There are gardens within the garden, among them a cacti garden; the bougainvillea walk with explosions of red, burgundy and pink; sunken gardens; lily ponds; an aviary; and orchid greenhouses. Most of the plants and trees, particularly the mango and spice species, originally came from a captured French ship on its way from Mauritius to Hispaniola in 1782.

Also around here is the No. 1 destination for any reggae lover, the Bob Marley Museum. This is superstar Bob Marley’s former house and studio, with a life-sized statue of the singer playing his guitar in the courtyard. The museum tour offers an intimate look at Marley’s life, including displays of his personal belongings, like his favorite denim shirt that he wore at concerts, his star-shaped guitar still propped by his bed, and his gold and platinum records.

For visual arts, the National Gallery of Jamaica is the place to go. Art lovers should plan to spend at least a half-day at this excellent art museum, the island’s oldest and largest public art gallery. The works of world-famous Jamaican artists are on display, such as Carl Abrahams, Cecil Baugh, John Dunkley, Edna Manley, Mallica “Kapo” Reynolds, Barrington Watson and many others. Guided tours are available, as well as lectures, discussions and children’s art programs. The African Caribbean Institute of Jamaica, which offers artifacts, audiovisual displays, cultural events and dance performances, is also in the gallery complex.

Another bastion of culture is the Institute of Jamaica, the country’s oldest museum. Built in 1879, it houses The National Library of Jamaica with Jamaican newspapers, books, maps and photographs going back 200 years; The Natural History Museum; a herbarium; and a science library with more than 10,000 publications, including a collection of 18th-century science journals.

Even though Kingston is one of the busiest capitals in the Caribbean, there is more to be done here than just business. Plenty of sightseeing opportunities await, starting in the center of town.

Make sure to visit the Parade, which is the city’s main square. Its name derives from its former use as parade grounds of the Colonial Militia and for public hangings and floggings. Here you’ll see the recently restored Ward Theatre, the country’s largest and best-known arts theater; the historic Coke Methodist Church on the east side of the square; and crowded Coronation Market, the largest market on the island, where vendors offer everything from spicy Jamaican meat patties to bunches of refreshing guineps (grape-sized fruit), handmade baskets, music CDs and beachwear. On the south side of the Parade is the Kingston Parish Church, where graves date to 1699.

Not too far away is the Devon House, offering visitors a glimpse of the city’s genteel past. Dating back to 1881, this mansion was built at the corner of Trafalgar Road and Hope Road by Jamaica’s first black millionaire, George Stiebel. You’ll see fine ancient furnishings inside the home and also tour the 11-acre grounds and gardens. Afterward, enjoy a lunch or dinner in one of two restaurants there, or browse at a dozen shops located in the estate’s former stables and carriage house.

You’ll also have your fill of natural splendor at Hope Botanical Gardens and Zoo. Established by the government on the Hope Estate in 1873, this is the largest garden in the West Indies, covering 200 green acres. Take a picnic lunch and sit on a bench in the shade to best enjoy the peaceful paths and sweeping lawns. There are gardens within the garden, among them a cacti garden; the bougainvillea walk with explosions of red, burgundy and pink; sunken gardens; lily ponds; an aviary; and orchid greenhouses. Most of the plants and trees, particularly the mango and spice species, originally came from a captured French ship on its way from Mauritius to Hispaniola in 1782.

Also around here is the No. 1 destination for any reggae lover, the Bob Marley Museum. This is superstar Bob Marley’s former house and studio, with a life-sized statue of the singer playing his guitar in the courtyard. The museum tour offers an intimate look at Marley’s life, including displays of his personal belongings, like his favorite denim shirt that he wore at concerts, his star-shaped guitar still propped by his bed, and his gold and platinum records.

For visual arts, the National Gallery of Jamaica is the place to go. Art lovers should plan to spend at least a half-day at this excellent art museum, the island’s oldest and largest public art gallery. The works of world-famous Jamaican artists are on display, such as Carl Abrahams, Cecil Baugh, John Dunkley, Edna Manley, Mallica “Kapo” Reynolds, Barrington Watson and many others. Guided tours are available, as well as lectures, discussions and children’s art programs. The African Caribbean Institute of Jamaica, which offers artifacts, audiovisual displays, cultural events and dance performances, is also in the gallery complex.

Another bastion of culture is the Institute of Jamaica, the country’s oldest museum. Built in 1879, it houses The National Library of Jamaica with Jamaican newspapers, books, maps and photographs going back 200 years; The Natural History Museum; a herbarium; and a science library with more than 10,000 publications, including a collection of 18th-century science journals.

Spanish Town
About 13 miles west of Kingston is Spanish Town — one of the oldest continuously occupied places in the Western Hemisphere. Dating back to 1534, the town was founded as Villa de la Vega by the Spanish. Later, the English captured it and renamed it Spanish Town. Under the English, it served as the capital of Jamaica from 1662 to 1872. Today, it’s the island’s third largest town and its illustrious past definitely makes it worth of a day-trip from Kingston.

Start your exploration at the town square. On the west side are the ruins of the Old King’s House, the residence of Jamaica’s British governors until 1872. Visitors to the once-elegant Georgian house, built of stones dug from the Hope River, included Capt. Bligh, Lord Horatio Nelson, Adm. George Rodney and Simon Bolivar. The declaration of the abolition of slavery in the British West Indies was read from the steps of its portico.

On the east side of the square is the stately two-story, red-brick House of Assembly. On the north side is the grand Rodney Memorial, built in honor of Admiral Sir George Brydges Rodney, who saved the island from a French invasion in 1782.

Three blocks from the square is the St. Jago de la Vega Cathedral, a grand mix of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, which is the oldest Anglican cathedral in the Commonwealth outside the U.K.

After exploring Spanish Town, it’s worthwhile to visit the Arawak Museum and Village, just three miles away in White Marl.

Shopping
Duty-free stores dot the city of Kingston, with countless bargains on name-brand fashions, perfumes, jewelry, electronics and more. Visitors should head to the stores on Dominica Drive, the Sovereign Center and Treasure House Plaza on Hope Road, and the plazas along Constant Spring Road, where they can find plenty of bling at 20 to 30 percent lower prices than the U.S. and Europe. New Kingston Shopping Centre on Dominica Drive has a nice range of stores and merchandise.

Intrepid shoppers who want inexpensive crafts and merchandise in an exuberantly Jamaican atmosphere can head to the Jubilee Market on the west end of the Parade and the Coronation Market. You would be wise to go with a guide or with a group, and keep an eye on your belongings. For a more relaxed shopping experience, visit the Crafts Market by the docks, where dozens of stalls in an old iron building offer batiks, straw hats and other crafts. And if you love Jamaican music, don’t miss the record stores on Orange Street in downtown Kingston.

Dining
Whether you want gourmet dining on the terrace of a historic great house, lobster at a waterfront café or steak at a downtown bistro, you’ll find it in Kingston. This is the premier dining destination in Jamaica, with world-class restaurants offering international fare.

Traditional Jamaican foods are plentiful at high-end restaurants as well as outdoor barbecues. Enjoy traditional spicy jerk chicken and pork flavored with fiery scotch bonnet peppers; rice and peas; hot escovitch fish; festival dumplings; cassava bammies; fresh fish like snapper, wahoo and grouper; delicious rock lobster; and curried goat — all washed down with Red Stripe beer or a cold cocktail made with Jamaican rum. Jamaica’s versions of fast food are tasty patties, which are pastry-wrapped spicy vegetables and meat. You’ll never go hungry while visiting Kingston.

Dining Options in Kingston

Trattoria Baci Restaurant
Italian
Wyndham Kingston Hotel
77 Knutsford Blvd.; 926-5430-7

The Restaurant at Spanish Court
International
1 St. Lucia Ave.; 926-0000

The Melting Pot Restaurant & Lounge
International
Knutsford Court Hotel
16 Chelsea Avenue; 929-1000/3407

Hotel Four Seasons Kingston
Jamaican
18 Ruthven Road; 926-0682/8805

Gazebo Bar and Restaurant
International
Golden Shore Resort Ltd.
Lot 288b Windward Drive; 962-9657

Alexander’s
Jamaican / International
Courtleigh Hotel
85 Knutsford Blvd.; 968-6339

The Venetian Room
Caribbean
Terra Nova All-Suite Hotel
17 Waterloo Road; 926-2211-3

Cocoro Restaurant
Japanese
Mayfair Hotel
40 West Kings House Close; 926-1610

Strawberry Hill
Jamaican / International
Irish Town, Blue Mountains above Kingston; 944-8400

Restaurant / Sports Bar Complex
Olympic sprinter Usain Bolt will open a highly anticipated sports-themed restaurant/bar complex, Tracks and Records, in late 2010. The stadium design will include a mezzanine, multiple bars and lounges and a retail shop carrying Bolt’s signature products. Built next to the popular Fiction lounge at Market Place on Constant Spring Road, the complex launched by the Fastest Man Alive — an Olympic gold medal winner and world-record holder — is expected to become an instant landmark on Kingston’s entertainment landscape. At the launch party early this year, Bolt said, “This is something big, something new, something different.”

The US$1 million venture is backed by Kingston Live Entertainment, which also owns Fiction. The complex’s architect, Zuar Jarrett, describes the design as “modern, sophisticated, high energy, explosive and fun.” There are plans to make Usain Bolt's Tracks and Records a global franchise, including one in London built in time for the 2012 Olympics.

Bolt’s immense popularity — he’s among the top five most popular athletes in the world — is expected to give the venture global recognition. Bolt is a one-man public relations force for Jamaica and is the new face of the Jamaica Tourist Board ad campaign.

“Usain Bolt’s Tracks and Records will boast the best of brand Jamaica in sports, music, art, culture, beverage and food,” says Tina Matalon of Kingston Live Entertainment. “Using arguably the most recognizable figure in sports today as a vehicle to create a global brand, Tracks and Records will bring to the world a product that is contemporary, sophisticated and exciting.”

Nightlife
As you might expect with a city this big and one so famous for its music, in Kingston the nightlife is bountiful. Live entertainment is presented at big outdoor venues such as Mas Camp, an outdoor arena on Oxford Road in New Kingston; Backyaad on Constant Spring Road; Jam World, which has hosted international performers such as Sting; and the Ranny Williams Cultural Centre, an arena on Hope Road that can seat 2,000 people. Check the city’s calendar of events for more information. You never know when a star such as Shaggy might be playing a concert on the grounds of the Jamaica House.

Numerous upscale nightclubs have overflow crowds downtown on Knutsford Boulevard, where patrons dress like they’re going to the Grammys. Others flock to dance bars on Dominica Drive and Constant Spring Road. Many upscale restaurants turn into nightclubs that usually start up around midnight.

For more cerebral nighttime entertainment check out the Ward Theatre at North Parade, and the Little Theatre and National Dance Theatre Company, which share space on Tom Redcam Avenue.

Getting Around Kingston
The best transportation for visitors is a taxi. For side trips to Spanish Town or to other cities on the island, there are modern air-conditioned buses where you can sit back and enjoy the scenery. Officially licensed taxis and buses are run by JUTA, the Jamaican Union of Travelers Association (876-926-1537). You can call a JUTA taxi or flag one down on the street. Their license plates are red and display “PP” or “PPV,” which stand for Public Passenger Vehicle. Fares average US$20 for every 10 miles. Fares are per car not passenger, and they should be negotiated before you get in. Most taxis are not metered, but metered fares should be posted in the taxi. The fare from Norman Manley International Airport to downtown hotels is about US$25. Fares are 25 percent higher between midnight and 5 a.m. A JUTA taxi from downtown to Port Royal is about US$35 one way, and $15 for a taxi from the airport to Port Royal.

JUTA drivers are certified by the Jamaica Tourist Board and are qualified to give island sightseeing tours. Fares for an all-day taxi tour can range from US$100 to $180 for up to four people depending on distance. Adventurous travelers who want to get a glimpse of the real Jamaica can take inexpensive public buses, minibuses and “route taxis” (shared taxis that drive designated routes). Fares are about US$1 for every 50 miles by bus; $1.50 to $2.50 for the minibuses. Buses in Kingston depart from the downtown terminal at Beckford and Pechon streets and a few leave from Half Way Tree Junction. Public bus fares from Kingston to Montego Bay (about five hours) are approximately US$8; Kingston to Ocho Rios (about three hours), $4; Kingston to Port Antonio (about three hours), $4.

The Knutsford Express (876-971-1822) is a new luxury bus service that provides transportation between Kingston, Ocho Rios, Montego Bay and Negril. The one-way rate from Kingston to Montego Bay is approximately US$35.

Avis Rent-A-Car
1 Merrick Ave., Kingston 10, Jamaica, W.I. 876-924-8248-9 / 800-744-0006; Fax: ­876-929-4998; md@avis.com.jm; Mgr. Dir.: Michael DaCosta; Dir.: Joan Chin

Bijoux Jewellers
Ocho Rios: Tajmahal Shopping Centre, 974-5446; Island Village, 675-8755; Montego Bay: Shoppes at Rose Hall, 953-9530; Sangster International Airport, 952-6718; Kingston: Dominica Drive, New Kingston, 926-4788. Exclusive dealers for Breitling, Hublot and Michele watches. Also Raymond Weil, Michael Kors, Fossil, DKNY, Armani and Kenneth Cole watches. Designer jewelry from Pandora, Roberto Coin and Judith Ripka. Diamond, tanzanite, emerald, ruby and sapphire jewelry. Lladro porcelain, Swarovski and Waterford crystal. Duty- and tax-free prices.

Bob Marley Museum
56 Hope Road
876-927-9152. Take an hour-long guided tour of the home of the late reggae superstar composer and singer. Memorabilia documents his work. Includes theater, garden, exhibit hall, shop and restaurant. Mon.-Sat., 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. US$20 adult, $10 children ages 4-12.

Budget Rent-A-Car / Int’l Rental
53 South Camp Road, Kingston 4, Jamaica, W.I. 876-759-1793; Fax: 876-759-1826; budget@jamweb.net; budgetjamaica.com; CEO: Richard Stewart; Gen. Mgr.: Diana Stewart.

Island Car Rentals
Kingston & Montego Bay, Jamaica W.I. Reservations Centre: 876-929-5875; Fax 876-929-6987; islandcarrentals.com. Dir. Operations & Reservations: Dulcie Moody. Over 800 vehicles.

Jamaica Air Shuttle
Tinson Pen Aerodrome
Marcus Garvey Drive
Kingston 11, Jamaica
876-923-0371 -3
reservations@jamaicaairshuttle.com
jamaicaairshuttle.com
Jamaica Air Shuttle is an airline operating scheduled services between Kingston’s Tinson Pen Aerodrome and Sangster International Airport in Montego Bay.The airline also offers international services to Port-au-Prince in Haiti and Santiago de Cuba in Cuba.

Spanish Court Hotel
1 St. Lucia Ave.
876-926-0000
info@spanishcourthotel.com
spanishcourthotel.com
Spanish Court Hotel is located in Kingston, the “heartbeat” of Jamaica. This is a
modern and chic hotel that is the home of The Restaurant at Spanish Court, The
Café, The Sky Terrace and The Zen Spa.

Swiss Stores Kingston
The Mall Plaza
20 Constant Spring Road
876-926-4861
open Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m.
SwissStoresJamaica.com
Swiss Stores Ltd.: Time-honored tradition of excellence and dedication since 1935. Exclusive Rolex and Tudor dealer for more than 75 years. Swiss Stores Ltd. is also the agent for Victorinox Swiss Army, Citizen, Alfex, Thomas Sabo, Tirisi, IsabelleFa, Rochet and Caran d’Ache and Cross.

The Courtleigh Hotel and Suites
85 Knutsford Blvd., New Kingston
876-929-9000
sales@courtleigh.com
courtleigh.com
The only address you will ever need to make the right impression in Kingston. The Courtleigh Hotel and Suites offers discerning guests unparalleled personalized service with deluxe rooms, suites and our ultra-luxurious Penthouse floor.

The Knutsford Court Hotel
16 Chelsea Ave., New Kingston
876-929-1000
sales@knutsfordcourt.com
www.knutsfordcourt.com
The Knutsford Court Hotel offers the best of both worlds, whether you’re traveling for business or leisure. You’ll find a selection of standard, superior, junior suites, one-bedroom suites and townhouses in a lush garden courtyard.

JHTA Hotel / Resort Members in Kingston

Altamont Court Hotel
1-3 Altamont Terrace
Kingston 5
876-929-4497/8 / 876-929-5931

Christar Villas Limited
99A Hope Road
Kingston 6
876-978-3933 / 7864 / 8066-71

The Courtleigh Hotel & Suites
85 Knutsford Blvd.
Kingston 5
876-929-9000

Golden Shore Resort Limited
Lot 288B Windward Drive
Lyssons, St. Thomas    
876-982-9657 / 734-0923 / 4

Gore Villas
22 Trafalgar Road, Suite 11 & 15
Kingston 5
876-978-1520 / 2

Hotel Four Seasons
18 Ruthven Road
Kingston 10
876-926-0682 / 8805

Jamaica Pegasus Hotel
81 Knutsford Blvd.
Kingston 5
876-926-3690/9 / 926-3100/8

Kircamp Properties / The Gardens
23 Liguanea Ave.
Kingston 10
876-927-8275     
 
Knutsford Court Hotel
16 Chelsea Ave.
Kingston 10
876-929-1000 / 3407

Liguanea Club
80 Knutsford Blvd.
Kingston 5
876-926-8144

Mayfair Hotel
4 West Kings House Close
Kingston 10
876-926-1610 / 2

Medallion Hall Hotel
53 Hope Road
Kingston 6
876-927-5721 / 5866

Shirley Retreat Hotel
7 Maeven Ave.
Kingston 10
876-927-9208 / 946-2679-81

Spanish Court Hotel
1 St. Lucia Ave.
Kingston 5
876-926-0000

Strawberry Hill Hotel & Spa
Liguanea
Kingston 6
876-944-8400

Terra Nova All-Suite Hotel
17 Waterloo Road
Kingston 10
876-926-2211

Wyndham Kingston, Jamaica
77 Knutsford Blvd.
Kingston 5
876-926-5430 / 7