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Beach Bummin’

By Jeff Borg

With their own distinctive personalities, sandy Jamaican beaches nestle into cozy protected coves between rocky cliffs and offshore reefs. Streaks of emerald greens and turquoise blues close to shore morph into royal blues out at the horizon. Such vibrant colors just make people want to jump in and wallow. Grand resorts take care of many beaches, raking and keeping them picture-perfect for guests. Others are private, charging a few dollars to cover maintenance. Still others are thoroughly public. No charge to enter.

Starting at the West End and working clockwise, let’s take a tour.

West End / Negril
Bohemian Negril gives vacationers that end-of-the-world feeling. This happy hippie haven is half-beach, long and lively, and half-cliffs, where otherwise rational adults leap from the rocks — at Rick’s Café and many West End resorts — into the lapping waters 30 feet below.

The pace along Seven Mile Beach is more languid than most places. Stroll the silky sands until you spot an inviting bar, then stop and chill awhile with the friendly mix of locals, Europeans and Americans debating rum, reggae and Rastafari.

Stroll some more and pick your perfect perch for beachside dining. Start with some spicy-sweet pumpkin soup. Savor the spicy-hot jerk chicken over pasta. Or choose a grilled red snapper that was still swimming this morning.

Don’t be put off by the name of Bloody Bay, a sandy semicircle just north of Rutland Point, the site of Breezes, Riu and Sunset resorts. Some say it got its name from a vicious pirate battle. Others say it was the whalers who -processed their quarry here. Today its white sands and azure waters lure beachgoers with their beauty — many patches open to the public, including one spot with pickup games of cricket and smoking barbecues of fresh lobster.

Montego Bay
Southwest of Montego Bay, the town of Sandy Bay offers the freedom to ride on horseback along the sea. Chukka Caribbean Adventures offers equestrian tours that provide panoramic views of the Jamaican coast and picturesque northern mountains. Ask about the nearby Lollipop Beach Club, which often brings in live bands.

At the center of Montego Bay, private Doctor’s Cave Beach sprawls between Marine Park and the famous Hip Strip. Convenient to many hotels, these translucent waters known for their invigorating mineral content invite swimmers. A food court, beach bar and cyber café provide meals, drinks and Internet access.

The beach at Rose Hall, just east of Montego Bay’s airport, has attracted several of the island’s more exclusive resorts, including Half Moon, Rose Hall Resort, the Ritz-Carlton and Sandals Royal Caribbean. Visitors staying elsewhere can find soft sands and clear waters at the private Rose Hall Beach Club.

Central North / Ocho Rios
In the unassuming Trelawny town of Duncans, many would claim the beach at Silver Sands as best in Jamaica. Most of it is private, available to those who own or rent villas at Silver Sands Estate. Otherwise, look for the similarly spectacular public Fisherman’s Beach just west. It has a pleasant vibe and attracts fishermen, artists, craftsmen and cooks.

At Island Village, a festival marketplace next to the cruise pier in Ocho Rios, there is a private beach along with the duty-free shops, reggae exhibition and local incarnation of Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville.

East of the cruise pier is a sweeping arc of sand known as Turtle Beach, with the lofty Sunset Jamaica Grande at one end. The public sands are lined with resorts, sailboats, personal watercrafts, volleyball games, couples and kids.

Down the coast a few minutes, golden afternoon sunlight illuminates the towering cliffs of Oracabessa, a name thought to derive from the Spanish words oro (gold) and cabeza (head).

Scenes from the film Goldfinger were filmed down at James Bond Beach, a spectacular site of crystal clear-waters fronting lush mountains. Take a personal watercraft tour for a unique peek at the estates of the rich and famous. Catch a reggae concert on the beach.

Perched high on a hill overlooking Port Maria sits the estate called Firefly, former home of flamboyant English playwright, composer, director, actor and singer Noel Coward. Today $10 gets you a tour of the historic house and view of the panoramic shore.

Port Antonio
More stunning and less crowded than elsewhere, the beaches here put Port Antonio on the map. Jamaican Reef Beach, a short, clean, private strip of sand within Port Antonio Marina, is convenient for cruisers in town for the day. The beach is well admired from a dining table or barstool at Norma’s.

Once upon a time at private Frenchman’s Cove east of town, you might have run into Queen Elizabeth or the lesser royals Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. The beauty of this narrow beach derives from its sandy bottom and the fresh waters flowing from a stream.

At neighboring San San Beach, frequented by the wealthy owners of fancy homes nearby, guests of the Jamaica Palace, Goblin Hill and Fern Hill resorts can use the private beach for free. An offshore island is good for snorkeling, but beware of spiny sea urchins if you step onto it.

The Blue Lagoon appeared in the movies Cocktail and Club Paradise, but not in the eponymous classic starring Brooke Shields. That’s a myth. Technically not a beach, this private swimming hole’s colors are recast by the sun, making the waters seem emerald, jade and sapphire.

Arawak natives believed the inlet was bottomless, but current estimates are 180–200 feet, fed by the salty sea and freshwater springs. Rent a snorkel to see rainbow-colored fish.

Another mile down the coast at Fairy Hill, beautiful Winnifred Beach offers clear waters and teeming coral reefs perfect for snorkeling. Popular with locals, this pretty gem buzzes with vendors selling crafts and preparing fresh fish and jerk delights.

Sweating over the flames of a dozen pits at Boston Bay, the muscular masters of jerk, a fiery cuisine invented here in Portland parish during slavery, zealously guard their family recipes. This public beach is known as much for its piquant aroma of chicken and pork grilling slowly as for its golden sands or turquoise waters.

Kingston
Fifteen minutes from Port Royal, the languorous island of Lime Cay, with clear waters, white sands and little else, is the perfect spot for a day of swimming, snorkeling and yachting near the big city.

The pretty public beach is open to anyone who can get out there. From Morgan’s -Harbour at Port Royal, a boat shuttle or rental can be arranged.

South Coast
Travelers in search of an authentic, timeless Jamaica find it at Treasure Beach, a -charming string of fishing villages on the southwest coast. Among its coves and bays, with a mix of sandy and rocky shores, dark and light sands, fishermen’s enclaves and swimming spots, Treasure Beach lives up to its lofty name. Four lovely, laid-back, public beaches are perfect for swimming, snorkeling, biking or hiking.

At Calabash Bay, friendly fishermen dock their brightly painted canoes to unload the daily catch. Visitors assemble in beachfront cafés and huts to taste the fare, seasoned and grilled to perfection. To hang awhile at -Treasure Beach, check out bohemian Jake’s, which exudes the local personality from its secluded cottages and hotel rooms amid the ackee, almond and guinep trees.

A more upscale South Coast can be found at Whitehouse, where Sandals maintains its section of beach to a very high standard, raked and cleaned each morning. Protected by a reef, waters are as still as a millpond. Visitors not staying at the luxurious Sandals can purchase a day pass that includes resort facilities, meals, drinks and watersports.

Images Courtesy of (in order of appearance): Country Country (3), Club Hotel Riu Ocho Rios (4), SuperClubs (5), Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall (6), Half Moon Rose Hall (7)